May 23

Requin review: A witty chef’s smart spins on coastal French cuisine

I feel a bit aggressive whenever her fritto misto hits the table. Among the sea treasures are scallops, calamari and prawns that have been dipped in milk and dusted with potato starch before being immersed in hot canola oil. Just before it’s served, the seafood is scattered with cilantro, chilies and lemon zest. The crackle and the fireworks put me in attack mode, too.